Mention the Canadian Rockies and most people will instantly think of Banff. As the main tourist destination in the Rockies, Banff is very much a tourist-oriented market town. But for those who like the Rockies a little quieter, 250 kilometers to the north is paradise: the city of Jasper.

July and August are the peak times to visit Jasper, but if you don’t mind the cooler weather and like frozen lakes, you can avoid some of the tourists by visiting in the months on either side. The weather can be rough, so allow some flexibility in your plans.

Six kilometers south of Jasper is Whistler Mountain. If you visit early or late in the day, you’ll most likely hear the melodic sounds of the whistling marmots that live on the lower slopes of the mountain. Early risers can also get cheaper tickets on the Whistler Mountain Gondola. The terminal is at 2,500m, with spectacular views to the south of the Columbia Icefields and to the west of Mount Robson.

For those who prefer to look up at the mountains, there are many beautiful lakes near the city, all surrounded by snow-capped peaks. Patricia and Pyramid lakes, 8 km northwest of the city, are small and calm. They have beaches that are crying out for hikers to sit on them and admire the view after a leisurely lunch. Herds of elk and deer roam the area, and if you’re really lucky, you might spot a coyote or black bear.

Maligne Lake is south of Jasper and is the largest of the glacial-fed lakes. A 1920s boathouse completes the storybook setting. There are a couple of great hikes in the area, making the most of the beautiful scenery.

Nearby is Maligne Canyon, a narrow cleft through the rocks filled with roaring water during the spring thaw. It is also home to a very active herd of bighorn sheep, which can jump out of nowhere to attract tourists.

For those visitors who like more relaxed activities, it is possible to swim in Annette and Edith lakes near the city. Located at around 1,000m, they are popular during the summer months, although prolonged bathing in the icy waters is still not recommended.

After a few hard days of sightseeing, take a leisurely 25-mile drive to Edmonton. In the sleepy little town of Pocahontas (it certainly moved!) take the turnoff to Miette Hot Springs. The renovated spas contain two pools and are a welcome respite for weary bodies. Along the way, you may be lucky enough to see mountain goats alongside the road, although they are more likely to be perched on a cliff high above you.

Another great drive is Route 93A, which was the original route from Jasper to Banff. Now preserved as a scenic route, the highway offers a number of interesting stops. Keep your eyes open, especially during the quieter times early and late in the day, because wildlife abounds here. Mother bears with their cubs have been seen munching on berries right by the side of the road!

The aptly named “Meeting of the Waters” marks the place where two rivers meet. During the spring thaw, this gathering can lead to spectacular hydraulic works. Later on, it is worth taking the time to visit Lake Moab. A pleasant walk ends with the superbly situated lake, mountains looming in the background.

Skiers visiting in the winter will surely want to make the trip to Marmot Basin, a popular ski resort south of Jasper on 93A. In summer, however, it’s much like any other desert ski field, except for the stunning scenery.

One of the last stops before the highway joins the main road is Athabasca Falls. A raging torrent in spring, the fierce waters tumble down and crash against hundreds of smooth rocks. Adventurers can explore upriver, but wear shoes with good grip.

When it comes time to leave Jasper, there are two main routes. Those who arrived by train can continue their journey east to Edmonton and across the Canadian plains, or west to Vancouver. This route takes you on one of the most spectacular train journeys in the world, with incredible scenery in every direction.

For those traveling by car, take plenty of time to explore the 145-mile Icefields Parkway, which connects Jasper to Banff, with a slight detour to Lake Louise. The road follows a valley through the Cordilleras Orientales and offers spectacular scenery and plenty of wildlife. At the end of the day, you probably have a stiff neck from craning your neck up to see the view.

Sunwapta Falls are set on thick rock terraces, and it’s worth taking a short walk up to the viewing platform. Peyto Lake is a beautiful glacial lake, but should only be visited when the snow clears, otherwise the gentle uphill walk can turn into a gigantic battle through waist-deep snow.

Another beautiful stop is Tangle Falls. Intrepid visitors can do a little exploring here, rewarded with an up-close look at the rushing waters. However, the best known stop is the Athabasca Glacier. This glacier has been steadily receding for years and there are date markers so you can see the gradual regression. It is possible to take a truck ride on the ice, or simply walk from the parking lot. Be careful: the weather can change very quickly during your visit, so be prepared.

The Western Wall is particularly interesting after or during rain, with thousands of small waterfalls tumbling down its rugged faces. And for those nature lovers with a penchant for moose, try visiting Waterfowl Lake at the end of the day. It is home to several of these huge creatures.

The Icefields Parkway continues to Lake Louise, the magnificent setting for scenes from the movie “The Bodyguard.” Finally, the road reaches Banff, leaving the peace and quiet of wild Jasper behind forever.

Exploring the Canadian Rockies is a must for lovers of rugged mountain scenery. For those who want to experience the Rocky Mountains and their wildlife as close as possible to how it would have been centuries ago, Jasper is the perfect base. The Rockies are waiting for you.