Getting to Vieques from the United States can be easy and reasonably cheap. It’s no more difficult than flying to the Florida Keys and less complicated than traveling to almost any other island in the Caribbean. Here are a couple of tips on how I do it when I’m on the go.
For starters, Puerto Rico is a US Commonwealth and US citizens currently do not need a passport to enter or exit. This will eventually change, but more on that later. No matter where you’re flying from in the United States, you’ll book a flight into San Juan International Airport (SJU). Nearly every major city on the East Coast has direct flights to San Juan several times a day and is served by half a dozen airlines, including American and United.
Book the earliest possible flight to San Juan. If you’re coming from an East Coast city like New York or DC, you can easily get there before noon. This will give you enough time and options to reach Vieques that same afternoon.
You have two ways to get to the island, flying or taking the ferry. Let’s start with the latter. The Vieques ferry is located in the town of Fajardo, which is about thirty-five miles from San Juan and leaves several times a day. From the San Juan airport, you will take a taxi, called a public, to Fajardo. There is a public booth just outside the airport baggage claim area. The trip currently costs $80 and takes between forty-five minutes and an hour depending on traffic. A quick note here: San Juan taxi drivers can be crazy. If you’re a soldier coming home from a convoy in Iraq, you’ll be pretty comfortable with the trip. For the rest of you, grab a Valium and hang in there. The taxi drivers speak English and you need to tip them. I give an extra $20 if we don’t kill anyone on the way.
Once you arrive in Fajardo, you will be dropped off at the ferry terminal. You will want to purchase your tickets immediately. Ticket agents are in the smaller building directly across the street from the main terminal. This can be a very chaotic scene on a small street, so have your taxi driver direct you where to go.
The ferry is only $2 per person each way, but you may be charged an additional ticket if your luggage is exceptionally large. Keep your bags with you at all times. Theft is really rare here and the terminal always seems to have several cops hanging around, but don’t tempt the occasional jerk. If you have a large group and a stack of bags, send one person out to buy tickets for everyone, but point the group out to the agents. They will determine if you need additional tickets for your bags. Do not try to sneak a huge baggage without paying. It won’t work and you’ll probably miss the boat because of it.
Plan to be in the terminal and in line at least one hour before your departure time. The ferry is first come first served and once it is full they leave. Boarding the ship is chaotic at best and the locals will fight their way ahead of you to be first. Don’t be insulted by this. The ferry is the lifeline of Vieques. Many locals work in Fajardo, not to mention go to school, doctor, and shop on the main island. Everyone wants to go home to their families and they’re not pushing just because you’re a gringo tourist. Keep a smile on your face, but be persistent and you’ll get your seat.
The ferries rarely run on time, but are usually up and running within half an hour of their schedule. If you are prone to motion sickness, sit on the upper deck in the open air. The main cabin is air conditioned like a meat locker and in rough waters you’ll want to keep your eyes on the horizon. The trip usually lasts an hour depending on the state of the sea. You will arrive at the terminal at Isabel Segunda on the north side of Vieques. If you need a taxi to your guest house, you will find several public ones parked on your right.
Using the ferry involves a lot more effort and uncertainty on your trip to Vieques, but at $2 per person it’s a steal. If you have a group of four, you’ll spend about $25 per person, including the cab ride from San Juan. If you take a plane, you’ll spend at least $90. I’ll go over some tips on flying in Part 2.